Jun 4, 2012

Rock 'n Romanticism

Lidewij Edelkoort on trends for winter 2013/ 2014

Dark, rich and intense; at first glance the presentation for winter 2013/2014 looks nothing like the light and spiritual presentation Lidewij Edelkoort gave for summer 2013. But during the presentation 'Romanticism' in the Amsterdam Muziekgebouw on May 22, Craftscurator found both trends actually are rooted in the same attitude consumers have: doubt.

The Age of Doubt
Lidewij Edelkoort said consumers have been confronted and are dealing with crisis for several seasons now. They are starting to realize this will continue for some time. Doubt has 2 sides, Lidewij explains; hope and fear. Hopeful people are accepting the situation as is and are adapting to new circumstances. People who fear the future are holding on to familiar systems and become more focused on the self. For both types of consumers goes that they will be more aware and critical, and expect more service and care from brands and businesses. A personal touch. Trends in fashion, textiles and interior show early signs of a renewed attention to detail. Lidewij's presentation was full of decoration, tailoring and complex materials.

Materials for winter 2013/2014 are heavily decorated. Rich jacquards, washed and felted wool in dark tones. Textiles are often made of multiple layers; lace or embroidery is used to embellish fabrics. Just like in the era of Romanticism, there is a fascination with nature. Woven, printed or embroidered patterns are often inspired by nature. Even whole landscapes are pictured. Rugs are important, intricately patterned, to be used on the floor as well as on the wall. In interior, decorative elements will be important; there is room for outstanding showpieces.

All these heavy and rich materials need to be applied differently than before. In fashion, Lidewij sees a revival of tailoring. Excellent craftsmanship is needed to construct new types of clothing that fits well and is durable. Inspiration is found in traditional suits and uniforms, details are enlarged and tweaked. In furniture and home accessories, there is also a lot of attention for the manufacturers and the process. Many brands are reinventing their classic pieces, and makers are showing off their outstanding craftsmanship. Lots of layered textiles and rich inlayed materials.

Heavy Metal
Do not think all this attention to detail is creating a frivolous look; the mood of the season is raw, sober and intense. Textiles and surfaces are often intricately decorated, but often show a raw edge, a washed or burned effect. For jeanswear and casual clothing this is a very interesting development. In interior, a lot of minerals and metals are used. Tin, copper and mirrored layers. These are all oxidized, matted or hammered to create a dark and casual effect.

Creative Touch
While the sober and spiritual summer 2013 presentation by Lidewij Edelkoort gave more insights into the mood of consumers, this dark and rich presentation for winter gave much more inspiration for material- and product- development. The many decorated materials just beg to be applied to garments, sofas and rugs. For creatives, this is a call to action to use their skills and make products that show care and attention.

Matt Metallics
By Sus Gallery, seen at Rossana Orlandi, Milan
Dark and Raw
Kusters and Kolk for Rubelli
Rich Jacquards
Lidewij Edelkoort for Rubelli
Rugs and Tapistry Techniques
Kiki van Eijk for Nodus Rugs
Renewed Classics
Thonet Chair by Lee Broom
Renewed Classics
by Fratelli Boffi
Rich Inlay Techniques
Tables by Moroso
Metal Reflections
Tom Dixon at Most, Milan